- Cuckoo Stud
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Orpingtons '101'
- Orpington Club Membership
- Orpington Type and Main Colours
- Non APS colours - new and pre-existing but not approved Orpington colours
- Blue Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Lavender & Lav Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Buff Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Red Barred (Cuckoo) Colour Standard
- Chocolate Orpington colour Standard
- BREEDING SPLASH to carry the silver gene >
- Buff Orpington improving Type
- White Orpington improving Type
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About us
- the Stud colours/breeds
- NEWS and UPDATES
- Breeding Cuckoo Orpingtons >
- Cuckoo and Black original lines
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington development
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington development
- Crele, Partridge and Gold Barred Buff Orpington development
- New Colours, acceptance of the colours
- Lavender and Lavender Cuckoo Orpingtons in the backyard
- the Chocolate Orpington >
- Cuckoo Double Bar and Single Bar factor
- the Blue Gene - theory of Mendel's Law
- Blue Cuckoo and Mendel's Law
- Developing multiple related lines
- Orpingtons - larrikin mateship = our first birds
- Our Cuckoo Silkies
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Gallery
- Show results
- Lavender & Lavender Cuckoo Orpington, bantam and large >
- Crele, Partridge Orpington
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington AORC, large >
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington, large >
- Cuckoo Orpington, bantam
- Black Orpington large
- Splash Orpington, large >
- Choc, Choc Cuckoo & Mauve Orpington large
- Choc Crele, Choc Partridge and Choc Birchen large size
- Black Orpington, bantam
- Gold Barred Buff Orpington
- Phoenix
- Silkie
- For Sale
- Contact us
- Acquiring and caring for your Orpingtons
- Feeding - what we feed our birds
- Heat waves, hot days, Summer and Liquefaction
- Artificial UV lighting
- Chook Saddles
- Fertility and my secret recipe
- Posted chickens - how to make them
- Embryonic developmental stages of a chick
- Mareks Disease
- Hatching larger std size birds
- Size = breeding down
- Brooder - recycled and effective
- Growth patterns and assessing birds
- Microchipping your birds
- Secure housing
- Lime - Hydrated and Garden (AG) Lime and their uses in the chook pen
- MOUSE/RAT TRAP chook friendly
- Appraisal pictures of your birds
- Showing - training your birds
- Coccidia Oocyst cycle and treating Coccidiosis with Baycox
- Lymphoid Leukosis – Avian (The Wasting Disease)
- Coryza Avibacterium Paragallinarum
- Crop problems in poultry
- Mosquito control
- Maremma - training a pup
- Fox Traps
- Snake Bite
Taking pictures of your birds for appraisal
by the Cuckoo Stud
The opinions and ideas expressed here are the authors and meant as a guide only.
When taking pictures one needs to have a neutral background (pale blue preferred) but can be extremely pale grey
Make a pen that is open to the front but enclosed on 3 sides and has a top – it must be large enough to comfortably hold your largest bird with space enough for it to take a few steps freely within the confines
Also allowing enough space for long tailed birds (Phoenix, Yokohamas etc)
Phoenix have to have a tall pen (abt 2mts high) with a stand (cockatoo stands work well) so that the tail drapes but can still be in the shot – often you will have to train these birds to stay calmly on the perch
Peacocks and Turkeys have to have a wide pen (YES they can be trained to stand calmly in a picture pen)
Tack a tape measure onto the leading edge of one wall, this will show the size of the bird – it MUST be a large print tape measure to show clearly enough in the pictures or simply place a coke can in the picture pen (off to one side) with the bird. Noting however that most birds play with a can and you rarely get good pictures using this method.
The accurate weight and where possible the age of the bird should also be included with pictures for accurate appraisal
Ensure the bird is allowed a bit of grain to help it to settle and become accustomed to the pen and is calm and well at ease BEFORE you attempt to take pictures
This is an essential component for success
If possible have the pen placed so that natural bright light can enter otherwise use the flash facility
Watch the bird for a few minutes so you can ‘read’ it before starting to take pictures
Allow the bird to move freely within the picture pen – DO NOT attempt to position the bird, this is regularly done at shows to 'get' pictures however the 'at the show picture' is not always a desirable one. Some on the other hand, are the best pictures you will ever get of your bird.
BEFORE taking the first picture =
Enforce the PATIENCE policy upon yourself as this is an essential part of the exercise, take a deep breath and expect to sit patiently and quietly for some minutes in order to get the best pictures
Take a number of pictures =
Full side shot of BOTH sides showing the entire bird including comb AND legs and feet preferably when the bird is fully sideways to the camera
Full front shot to show depth of chest ensuring to show head, legs and feet
A shot at a slight angle to show the character (head slightly tilted / jaunty stance etc) of the bird (angle at your discretion)
Then have another person handle the bird and carefully spread each wing separately and take pictures of both
Shot of the back showing the entire length of the bird from beak to tip of tail
A shot like this with both wings out-spread is advantageous as well
Close-up of feet and legs – in 5 toed/feathered etc legs/feet ensure all toes/feathers are in the shot, and take one shot from the front of the top of the foot another from the underside (ensure the feet are clean of course)
A close-up profile (head) shot from both sides showing comb and wattles clearly - ensure NO blurriness
A close-up of head from the front showing the comb and wattles clearly
(you may need to test photograph for these close-up shots)
After a few times you will be able to quickly and easily take shots (potentially exceptional shots) of your birds
# subject to copyright laws of Australia