- Cuckoo Stud
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Orpingtons '101'
- Orpington Club Membership
- Orpington Type and Main Colours
- Non APS colours - new and pre-existing but not approved Orpington colours
- Blue Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Lavender & Lav Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Buff Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Red Barred (Cuckoo) Colour Standard
- Chocolate Orpington colour Standard
- BREEDING SPLASH to carry the silver gene >
- Buff Orpington improving Type
- White Orpington improving Type
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About us
- the Stud colours/breeds
- NEWS and UPDATES
- Breeding Cuckoo Orpingtons >
- Cuckoo and Black original lines
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington development
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington development
- Crele, Partridge and Gold Barred Buff Orpington development
- New Colours, acceptance of the colours
- Lavender and Lavender Cuckoo Orpingtons in the backyard
- the Chocolate Orpington >
- Cuckoo Double Bar and Single Bar factor
- the Blue Gene - theory of Mendel's Law
- Blue Cuckoo and Mendel's Law
- Developing multiple related lines
- Orpingtons - larrikin mateship = our first birds
- Our Cuckoo Silkies
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Gallery
- Show results
- Lavender & Lavender Cuckoo Orpington, bantam and large >
- Crele, Partridge Orpington
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington AORC, large >
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington, large >
- Cuckoo Orpington, bantam
- Black Orpington large
- Splash Orpington, large >
- Choc, Choc Cuckoo & Mauve Orpington large
- Choc Crele, Choc Partridge and Choc Birchen large size
- Black Orpington, bantam
- Gold Barred Buff Orpington
- Phoenix
- Silkie
- For Sale
- Contact us
- Acquiring and caring for your Orpingtons
- Feeding - what we feed our birds
- Heat waves, hot days, Summer and Liquefaction
- Artificial UV lighting
- Chook Saddles
- Fertility and my secret recipe
- Posted chickens - how to make them
- Embryonic developmental stages of a chick
- Mareks Disease
- Hatching larger std size birds
- Size = breeding down
- Brooder - recycled and effective
- Growth patterns and assessing birds
- Microchipping your birds
- Secure housing
- Lime - Hydrated and Garden (AG) Lime and their uses in the chook pen
- MOUSE/RAT TRAP chook friendly
- Appraisal pictures of your birds
- Showing - training your birds
- Coccidia Oocyst cycle and treating Coccidiosis with Baycox
- Lymphoid Leukosis – Avian (The Wasting Disease)
- Coryza Avibacterium Paragallinarum
- Crop problems in poultry
- Mosquito control
- Maremma - training a pup
- Fox Traps
- Snake Bite
For those that wish to, or are forced to, use artificial lighting for their birds
by the Cuckoo Stud
Artificial lighting and Vitamin D
When growing out chicks they require Vitamin D, not many are able to have chicks running loose and getting a dose of sunlight each day. Meaning the chicks are not getting adequate Vitamin D.
Many say “Just give them Vitamins.”
Yes vitamins are a useful tool in helping chicks to grow out healthy and strong
(bearing in mind a good diet is also needed for this outcome)
However the use of artificial lighting also helps =
Adequate exposure to UV light is the most important tool for Vitamin D conversion/absorption.
Reptile UV lights (they look like mini Fluro lights but are different in their output) are a valuable resource when you are either unable or unwilling to give vitamins 24/7; these lights emit the correct UV to allow the reptiles, and your birds to process it into Vitamin D.
So =
When either choosing to, or being forced to, use artificial lighting = use these reptile UV lights at the rate of 50/50 with regular White Daylight lights, and it should help dramatically reduce the risk of Rickets and other Vitamin D deficient problems
These reptile lights are the screw in type (as pictured above) so you will need the correct fixture = a cover that blocks the human equation from having to look directly at the bulb. I found that the large heat lamp covers once modified make excellent fixtures/covers and they direct all the light down onto the birds where it is needed.
Alternately you can use portable floodlights and attach a lamp cover over them = just so long as it is a screw in fixture with a cover.
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