- Cuckoo Stud
-
Orpingtons '101'
- Orpington Club Membership
- Orpington Type and Main Colours
- Non APS colours - new and pre-existing but not approved Orpington colours
- Blue Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Lavender & Lav Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Buff Cuckoo Colour Standard
- Red Barred (Cuckoo) Colour Standard
- Chocolate Orpington colour Standard
- BREEDING SPLASH to carry the silver gene >
- Buff Orpington improving Type
- White Orpington improving Type
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About us
- the Stud colours/breeds
- NEWS and UPDATES
- Breeding Cuckoo Orpingtons >
- Cuckoo and Black original lines
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington development
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington development
- Crele, Partridge and Gold Barred Buff Orpington development
- New Colours, acceptance of the colours
- Lavender and Lavender Cuckoo Orpingtons in the backyard
- the Chocolate Orpington >
- Cuckoo Double Bar and Single Bar factor
- the Blue Gene - theory of Mendel's Law
- Blue Cuckoo and Mendel's Law
- Developing multiple related lines
- Orpingtons - larrikin mateship = our first birds
- Our Cuckoo Silkies
-
Gallery
- Show results
- Lavender & Lavender Cuckoo Orpington, bantam and large >
- Crele, Partridge Orpington
- Blue Cuckoo Orpington AORC, large >
- Buff Cuckoo Orpington, large >
- Cuckoo Orpington, bantam
- Black Orpington large
- Splash Orpington, large >
- Choc, Choc Cuckoo & Mauve Orpington large
- Choc Crele, Choc Partridge and Choc Birchen large size
- Black Orpington, bantam
- Gold Barred Buff Orpington
- Phoenix
- Silkie
- For Sale
- Contact us
- Acquiring and caring for your Orpingtons
- Feeding - what we feed our birds
- Heat waves, hot days, Summer and Liquefaction
- Artificial UV lighting
- Chook Saddles
- Fertility and my secret recipe
- Posted chickens - how to make them
- Embryonic developmental stages of a chick
- Mareks Disease
- Hatching larger std size birds
- Size = breeding down
- Brooder - recycled and effective
- Growth patterns and assessing birds
- Microchipping your birds
- Secure housing
- Lime - Hydrated and Garden (AG) Lime and their uses in the chook pen
- MOUSE/RAT TRAP chook friendly
- Appraisal pictures of your birds
- Showing - training your birds
- Coccidia Oocyst cycle and treating Coccidiosis with Baycox
- Lymphoid Leukosis – Avian (The Wasting Disease)
- Coryza Avibacterium Paragallinarum
- Crop problems in poultry
- Mosquito control
- Maremma - training a pup
- Fox Traps
- Snake Bite
A recycled cost efficient effective brooder
by the Cuckoo Stud
You can use an old fridge =
take it to a professional for de-gassing
IT IS ILLEGAL AND DANGEROUS TO DE-GAS A FRIDGE YOURSELF - it must be done by a professional
strip it out
remove shelves and freezer compartment if it is inside the main section of the fridge
remove metal grate thingy at the back (cant remember the name) and the motor etc
next =
lay the fridge on its back in a draft free corner somewhere
keep the metal grate from the back of the unit - measure it and cut a hole in the door 2/3cm smaller than the grate and bolt the grate over this hole securely enough so it cant be ripped off (thinking of cats, dogs and foxes here) it will / should keep out snakes as well by bolting a latch on the door attached to the side of the unit - just put a lock or bolt thru the latch
make hangers for a heating lamp (with a reflective cover) feed and water containers (that hold enough to last abt a week)
wash the inside area with soap and water then rinse, then wash / spray down with Virkon leaving the Virkon to dry by evaporation
spread either finely cut straw or rice hulls NEVER woodchips = they are predominantly from pine and the sap is dangerous to chicks
fill water (use vitamins of course) and feed containers put chicks in close 'door’ and turn on the heat lamp
TA DA!!
Instant easy to clean brooder and you are contributing the recycling!!
If the fridge has a separate door for a freezer all the better =
A mouse proof feed holder
# by the way if you dont HAVE an old fridge - next council clean up day = drive around with a ute or trailer and take home any that anyone has left out with the door/s still on it - thats how we got most of ours!! also ask family and friends and try looking on the internet
Note that we reduce the heat for the chicks at about 6 weeks old to between ¼ and ½ and allow them to have this 'comfort zone heat' available until about 10 weeks old. The extended heat time is recommended as the Black and Chocolate are slow to feather up. Also we give the extra time because we have yo-yo weather here = for 2 or 3 days it will be still, warm and lovely then for the next week or so it will be cold, often raining and with freezing winds.
These winds are welcome in Summer but not at other times of the year.
# subject to copyright laws of Australia